🐍 Royal Python Care Guide

Royal Pythons, also known as Ball Pythons, are one of the most popular pet snakes. They are known for their generally calm nature, manageable adult size and tendency to curl into a tight ball when they feel threatened.

They are available in many different colours and patterns, known as morphs.

Adult Royal Pythons commonly reach around 90–150cm (3–5ft), with females generally growing larger and heavier than males.

With the correct care, Royal Pythons can live for 20–30 years or longer, making them a significant long-term commitment.

This guide covers the basics you need to keep your Royal Python happy and healthy.

♂️♀️ How to Tell the Sex

Unlike many reptiles, male and female Royal Pythons can look very similar externally, making it difficult to determine their sex simply by looking at them.

🐍 Males

Males generally:

• Tend to remain smaller and slimmer than females, although there is considerable individual variation
• Have hemipenes located internally at the base of the tail
• Cannot be reliably identified by colour, pattern or head shape

🐍 Females

Females generally:

• Tend to grow larger and heavier than males
• Often develop a heavier-bodied appearance as adults
• Cannot be reliably identified by appearance alone

🔍 How Are Royal Pythons Sexed?

Reliable sexing is normally carried out using specialist techniques such as probing or popping.

These procedures should only be performed by someone experienced and competent, as incorrect technique can cause serious injury to the snake.

Size and body shape can provide clues in mature Royal Pythons, but they should not be relied upon to determine sex.

⚠️ Young Royal Pythons

Young Royal Pythons can be particularly difficult to sex from their external appearance.

Never assume that a smaller snake is male or a larger snake is female.

⚠️ Sexing Disclaimer

Please note that Roxy’s Pet Shop is unable to guarantee the sex of any livestock.

Where we provide a suggested sex, this is based on the animal’s characteristics, age and our experience at the time.

Any sex stated should therefore be treated as our best assessment and not a guarantee.

🏠 Housing & Vivarium

Royal Pythons require a secure, well-ventilated vivarium that allows them to move, stretch, hide and explore.

Young snakes can begin in appropriately sized accommodation, but the enclosure will need upgrading as they grow.

For many adults, a 4ft × 2ft × 2ft vivarium provides a good amount of usable space, although the enclosure should always be appropriate for the size of the individual snake.

The enclosure should include:

• Thermostat-controlled heating

• Suitable UVB lighting

• Digital thermometers

• Digital hygrometer

• Warm-side hide

• Cool-side hide

• Suitable substrate

• Large water bowl

• Branches and climbing opportunities

• Plants and additional cover

• Suitable enrichment

Royal Pythons can feel vulnerable in large, completely empty enclosures.

A larger enclosure is excellent when it contains plenty of hides, cover and enrichment.

🌡️ Temperature

Royal Pythons need a proper temperature gradient so they can regulate their own body temperature.

Aim for approximately:

Warm/basking area:
🌡️ 30–32°C

Cool side:
🌡️ 24–26°C

A small drop in temperature overnight is acceptable, provided the enclosure doesn't become excessively cold.

Use reliable digital thermometers to monitor temperatures.

Don't rely on simply touching the enclosure to decide whether it feels warm enough.

🔥 Heating & Thermostat

Any heat source used for a Royal Python must be controlled by a suitable thermostat.

Depending on the enclosure, suitable heating options can include:

• Halogen basking lamp

• Deep heat projector

• Ceramic heat emitter

• Other appropriate reptile heating equipment

The thermostat must be suitable for the type of heater being used.

Never use an uncontrolled heat source.

Royal Pythons can suffer serious burns if heating equipment is installed incorrectly.

Any heat bulb positioned inside the enclosure must be protected by a suitable guard so the snake cannot touch it.

Do not use heat rocks.

☀️ UVB & Lighting

We recommend providing suitable low-level UVB lighting for Royal Pythons.

UVB can form part of a well-designed, naturalistic setup and supports normal vitamin D3 production.

The correct UVB strength depends on:

• Enclosure height

• Distance between the lamp and snake

• Mesh or guards between the lamp and animal

• Amount of cover

• Manufacturer's recommendations

Provide approximately 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness to maintain a normal day/night cycle.

All visible lighting should be switched off overnight.

💦 Humidity

Royal Pythons require moderate-to-high humidity.

Aim for approximately:

💧 60–70% humidity

Humidity can be increased somewhat during shedding if necessary.

Use a digital hygrometer rather than guessing.

Humidity should be achieved through suitable substrate, ventilation and water management rather than keeping the entire enclosure permanently soaking wet.

Constantly wet conditions can contribute to skin problems.

🪵 Substrate

Suitable substrates can include:

• Coco husk

• Coco fibre

• Orchid bark

• Suitable reptile soil mixtures

• Other Royal Python-safe substrates

Choose a substrate that helps maintain appropriate humidity without remaining permanently saturated.

Avoid dusty, strongly scented or potentially harmful substrates.

Spot-clean waste whenever you see it and replace dirty substrate as necessary.

🏚️ Hides

Royal Pythons naturally spend a considerable amount of time hiding.

Provide at least two secure hides:

• One on the warm side

• One on the cool side

A suitable hide should allow the snake to fit inside relatively snugly.

A huge open cave may look attractive to us but can make a Royal Python feel exposed.

Additional cork bark, plants and cover can help the snake feel secure while moving around the enclosure.

🌿 Climbing & Enrichment

Despite sometimes being described as purely ground-dwelling snakes, Royal Pythons can and do climb.

Provide:

• Strong branches

• Cork bark

• Plants

• Different textures

• Multiple hides

• Tunnels

• Elevated areas

• Opportunities to explore

Any branches must be securely positioned to support the snake's weight.

Enrichment encourages natural behaviour and makes much better use of the enclosure.

💧 Water

Fresh, clean drinking water must be available at all times.

Provide a sturdy water bowl that cannot easily be tipped over.

The bowl should be large enough for your snake to drink comfortably and, ideally, soak if it chooses.

Change the water every day and immediately if it becomes contaminated.

🐀 Feeding Your Royal Python

Royal Pythons are carnivores and are normally fed appropriately sized frozen-thawed rodents.

Depending on the snake's size, prey may include mice or rats.

Prey must be completely thawed before feeding.

Never feed frozen prey directly to your snake.

A rough feeding guide is:

Young Royal Pythons:
🐁 Approximately every 5–7 days

Juveniles:
🐀 Approximately every 7–10 days

Adults:
🐀 Approximately every 10–14 days, with some mature adults appropriately fed at longer intervals depending on prey size and body condition.

These are guidelines rather than strict rules.

Feeding should be adjusted according to the snake's:

• Age

• Size

• Weight

• Body condition

• Activity

• Prey size

Overfeeding Royal Pythons can lead to obesity.

📏 Choosing the Correct Prey Size

Prey should be appropriately sized for your snake.

A commonly used guide is to offer prey approximately the same width as the widest part of the snake, although prey size and feeding frequency should also be considered alongside the snake's weight and body condition.

As the snake grows, prey size should be adjusted appropriately.

If you're unsure which size mouse or rat your Royal Python needs, ask us at Roxy's Pet Shop and we'll help you choose.

🧊 Safely Defrosting Frozen Rodents

Frozen rodents should be fully thawed before feeding.

Defrost safely and warm the prey appropriately before offering it using feeding tongs.

Make sure the centre is completely thawed.

Never microwave frozen rodents, as this can create dangerously hot areas and may cause the prey to rupture.

Wash your hands and disinfect surfaces that have come into contact with feeder rodents.

🐍 Feeding Tips

Offer prey using long feeding tongs, not your fingers.

We generally recommend feeding the snake inside its normal enclosure rather than routinely moving it to a separate feeding box.

Moving a snake immediately before and after eating can cause unnecessary stress.

After offering food, give your snake privacy.

Some Royal Pythons prefer to eat when they feel completely secure.

🍽️ My Royal Python Isn't Eating!

Royal Pythons are well known for occasionally refusing food.

A missed meal doesn't automatically mean something is wrong.

Food refusal can be associated with:

• Shedding

• Seasonal changes

• Stress

• Recent relocation

• Breeding behaviour

• Incorrect temperature

• Incorrect humidity

• Inadequate hiding places

• Being offered inappropriate prey

Check your husbandry first.

Repeatedly offering food every day can make the situation worse by causing additional stress.

Keep a record of feeding and monitor the snake's weight.

Persistent food refusal accompanied by significant weight loss or other signs of illness should be investigated by a reptile/exotics-experienced vet.

✋ Handling

Royal Pythons generally tolerate calm, gentle handling well once settled.

When handling:

• Move slowly

• Support the snake's body

• Allow it to move through your hands

• Don't squeeze

• Avoid restraining the head unnecessarily

• Keep sessions sensible in length

• Supervise children carefully

A Royal Python curling tightly into a ball is usually indicating that it feels threatened or insecure.

Give it space rather than forcing it to uncurl.

⏰ Handling After Feeding

Avoid handling your Royal Python for at least 48 hours after feeding.

Handling too soon can cause stress and may result in regurgitation.

🪶 Shedding

Royal Pythons periodically shed their skin.

Before shedding you may notice:

• Colours becoming dull

• Skin appearing cloudy

• Eyes becoming blue or milky

• Reduced activity

• More hiding

• Reduced appetite

The eyes may clear again shortly before the snake actually sheds.

This is normal.

Ideally, the old skin should come away in one complete piece.

💦 Helping With Shedding

Good hydration and correct humidity are essential.

Make sure:

• Fresh water is always available

• Humidity is appropriate

• A humid hide is available if required

• Suitable rough surfaces such as cork are available

Never pull dry retained skin from your snake.

After a shed, check carefully around:

• Eyes

• Tail tip

• Head

Repeated poor sheds usually indicate that something about the snake's environment or hydration needs correcting.

🧹 Cleaning

Good hygiene is important.

Every day:

• Check temperatures

• Check humidity

• Refresh drinking water

• Remove waste

• Check your snake

Regularly:

• Clean the water bowl

• Replace dirty substrate

• Clean hides

• Clean decorations

• Thoroughly clean the enclosure as required

Use a reptile-safe disinfectant and follow the manufacturer's instructions.

Never expose the snake directly to cleaning chemicals.

🩺 Health

A healthy Royal Python should generally:

• Maintain a good body condition

• Have clear eyes when not shedding

• Have smooth, healthy scales

• Breathe quietly

• Move normally

• Have a clean mouth and nostrils

• Shed successfully

Learning what is normal for your individual snake will make changes easier to notice.

⚠️ Signs to Watch For

Contact a reptile/exotics-experienced vet if you notice:

• Wheezing or clicking

• Mucus or bubbles around the nose or mouth

• Persistent open-mouth breathing

• Significant weight loss

• Repeated regurgitation

• Swelling

• Burns or wounds

• Persistent shedding problems

• Abnormal lumps

• Mites

• Severe lethargy

• Neurological symptoms

• Persistent food refusal accompanied by weight loss

Don't wait until your snake is severely unwell before seeking veterinary advice.

🕷️ Snake Mites

Snake mites are tiny external parasites.

Signs can include:

• Tiny moving black dots

• Excessive soaking

• Frequent rubbing

• Irritated skin

• Small dark specks around the eyes or underneath scales

If you suspect mites, isolate the affected reptile from other reptiles and seek appropriate treatment advice.

Never randomly apply household insecticides or unsuitable chemicals to your snake.

⚖️ Monitoring Weight

Regular weighing is particularly useful with Royal Pythons because they may occasionally refuse food.

Use accurate digital scales and keep a record of:

• Weight

• Feeding dates

• Prey size

• Successful sheds

This makes it much easier to identify a genuine problem.

A Royal Python that misses meals but maintains a healthy body condition and stable weight is very different from one that is steadily losing weight.

🦠 Hygiene & Salmonella

Like other reptiles, Royal Pythons can naturally carry Salmonella bacteria without appearing ill.

Always:

• Wash your hands thoroughly after handling

• Wash your hands after cleaning the enclosure

• Keep reptile equipment away from food preparation areas

• Supervise children's hygiene

• Clean contaminated surfaces appropriately

Never kiss your snake or allow it near your face or food.

🏡 Bringing Your New Royal Python Home

Before collecting your Royal Python, its enclosure should already be:

• Fully set up

• Secure

• Heated correctly

• Controlled by a thermostat

• Maintaining suitable humidity

• Equipped with warm and cool hides

• Supplied with fresh water

• Running with the correct lighting

When you first bring your snake home:

• Keep handling to a minimum

• Provide plenty of privacy

• Don't constantly open the enclosure

• Keep temperatures and humidity stable

• Allow it time to settle

It's completely normal for a new Royal Python to spend a lot of time hiding.

Hiding is normal behaviour and helps the snake feel secure.

Give your snake time to settle before beginning regular handling.

👨👩👧 Is a Royal Python Right for You?

Royal Pythons can make fantastic pet snakes, but they require a significant long-term commitment.

Before buying one, remember that they:

• Can live for 20–30 years or longer

• Can reach around 3–5ft

• Need a suitably sized enclosure

• Require thermostat-controlled heating

• Need controlled humidity

• Eat whole frozen-thawed rodents

• Can occasionally refuse food

• Require regular cleaning

• May require specialist veterinary treatment

• Need suitable care whenever you're away

Make sure everyone in the household is comfortable with keeping and feeding a snake before bringing one home.

❤️ The Most Important Things to Remember

A happy, healthy Royal Python needs a secure and suitably sized enclosure, correct temperatures, thermostat-controlled heating, suitable humidity, secure hides, fresh water, correctly sized food and plenty of appropriate enrichment.

Remember:

🌡️ Create a proper warm-to-cool temperature gradient.
🔥 Always control heating with a thermostat.
💦 Monitor humidity with a digital hygrometer.
🏚️ Provide secure hides on both sides of the enclosure.
🐀 Feed appropriate frozen-thawed prey without overfeeding.

Have your complete enclosure set up and running correctly before bringing your Royal Python home.

🐍 Roxy's Pet Shop

Need help with your Royal Python?

Whether you're choosing a vivarium, heating, thermostat, UVB, substrate, hides, decorations or the correct size frozen food, please ask us. No question is too small or silly – we'd much rather you ask.

We recommend having your complete setup ready and running at the correct temperature and humidity before collecting your snake.

Roxy's Pet Shop
Bloxwich High Street, WS3 3LA
☎️ 01922 492521
🌐 roxyspetshop.co.uk

This care guide provides general husbandry information and does not replace veterinary advice. Requirements can vary depending on the individual animal, enclosure and equipment used. If you are concerned about your snake's health, contact a qualified reptile/exotics-experienced veterinary professional.