🦎 Leopard Gecko Care Guide

Leopard Geckos are one of the most popular pet reptiles. They are known for their attractive patterns, manageable size and generally calm temperament.

Unlike Crested Geckos, Leopard Geckos are ground-dwelling and don't have sticky toe pads for climbing smooth surfaces.

They are mainly active during the evening, night and around dawn and dusk, spending much of the daytime resting inside hides.

Adult Leopard Geckos generally reach around 18–25cm (7–10 inches).

With the correct care, they can live for 15–20 years or longer, so they are a long-term commitment.

This guide covers the basics you need to keep your Leopard Gecko happy and healthy.

♂️♀️ How to Tell the Sex

Sexing a Leopard Gecko can be difficult when they are young. The differences usually become much clearer as the gecko grows and reaches maturity.

🦎 Males

Mature males generally have:

• Two noticeable hemipenal bulges at the base of the tail, just behind the vent
• A distinct V-shaped row of pre-anal pores above the vent
• More prominent and visible pores than females
• A broader and thicker tail base

🦎 Females

Mature females generally have:

• No prominent hemipenal bulges
• A flatter area at the base of the tail
• Pre-anal pores that are very faint or much less noticeable
• No obvious V-shaped row of pronounced pores

🔍 Pores & Hemipenal Bulges

The underside of the gecko around the vent and base of the tail is usually the best area to check.

A mature male normally has a clearly visible V-shaped row of pores together with two hemipenal bulges behind the vent.

Females generally have a much smoother and flatter appearance in this area.

Never force the tail upwards or restrain the gecko unnecessarily when checking.

⚠️ Young Leopard Geckos

Young Leopard Geckos can be difficult to sex accurately. The pores and hemipenal bulges become more obvious as they grow and mature.

⚠️ Sexing Disclaimer

Please note that Roxy’s Pet Shop is unable to guarantee the sex of any livestock.

Where we provide a suggested sex, this is based on the animal’s visible characteristics, age and our experience at the time. Some animals can be particularly difficult to sex when young.

Any sex stated should therefore be treated as our best assessment and not a guarantee.

🏠 Housing & Vivarium

Leopard Geckos need a secure, well-ventilated enclosure with plenty of usable floor space.

For an adult, we recommend a vivarium of at least around:

90cm × 45cm × 45cm (approximately 3ft × 1.5ft × 1.5ft)

Larger enclosures are even better when properly heated and furnished.

The enclosure should include:

• Thermostat-controlled heating

• Suitable UVB lighting

• Digital thermometers

• Warm hide

• Cool hide

• Humid hide

• Suitable substrate

• Fresh water

• Calcium

• Rocks, plants and other cover

• Suitable enrichment

The enclosure should be fully set up and running correctly before bringing your gecko home.

🌡️ Temperature

Leopard Geckos need a proper temperature gradient so they can regulate their own body temperature.

Aim for a warm/basking surface temperature of approximately:

🌡️ 30–32°C

The cooler end should generally be around:

🌡️ 22–25°C

Temperatures can naturally fall somewhat overnight.

Always use reliable digital thermometers to check the actual temperatures inside the enclosure.

Don't judge temperature by touching the substrate with your hand.

🔥 Heating & Thermostat

Leopard Geckos benefit from heat provided from above, creating a warm area similar to naturally heated surfaces.

Depending on the enclosure, suitable options can include:

• Halogen basking lamps

• Deep heat projectors

• Other appropriate reptile heating systems

All heating equipment must be appropriately controlled.

Use a suitable thermostat for the type of heater installed.

Never use an uncontrolled heat source.

Any bulb positioned inside the enclosure must be safely guarded so the gecko cannot come into contact with it.

Heat rocks should not be used.

☀️ UVB Lighting

We recommend providing suitable low-level UVB lighting for Leopard Geckos.

UVB helps support natural vitamin D3 production and calcium metabolism.

The correct UVB strength depends on:

• Enclosure height

• Distance from the gecko

• Mesh or guards between the lamp and animal

• Amount of cover

• Manufacturer's recommendations

Your gecko should always be able to move away from the UVB and into shaded areas.

Provide approximately 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness.

Visible lights should be switched off overnight.

🌙 Night-Time Heating

Don't use red, blue or coloured bulbs to illuminate the enclosure throughout the night.

Leopard Geckos benefit from a proper period of darkness.

In many normally heated homes, additional night heating may not be required.

If your home becomes too cold overnight, use a suitable lightless heat source controlled by a thermostat.

💦 Humidity

Leopard Geckos don't require a constantly humid tropical enclosure.

General enclosure humidity can usually be kept around 30–50%, although natural fluctuations are normal.

Good ventilation is important.

The main enclosure should not be permanently wet.

However, your gecko should always have access to a humid hide.

🏚️ The Three Hides

We recommend providing at least three hiding areas:

🔥 Warm Hide

Placed towards the warm side.

❄️ Cool Hide

Placed towards the cooler side.

💦 Humid Hide

Contains a moisture-retaining material and provides a humid microclimate.

The humid hide is particularly important during shedding.

Suitable material inside the humid hide can include damp sphagnum moss or another appropriate moisture-retaining material.

Keep it moist rather than soaking wet.

🪵 Substrate

Suitable substrate depends partly on the gecko's age, health and enclosure design.

Options can include:

• Reptile-safe soil/sand mixtures

• Suitable naturalistic arid substrates

• Slate incorporated into the enclosure

• Paper towel for quarantine or when close monitoring is required

A properly maintained naturalistic substrate can allow digging and other natural behaviours.

Avoid:

• Calcium sand

• Pure loose sand as a simplistic setup

• Cat litter

• Wood shavings

• Strongly scented substrate

• Sharp materials

• Anything containing harmful chemicals

Correct temperatures, hydration, diet and husbandry are important when using loose substrates.

🪨 Enrichment

Leopard Geckos may not climb glass like Crested Geckos, but they still benefit from an interesting environment.

Provide:

• Rocks

• Cork bark

• Low branches

• Caves

• Plants

• Different textures

• Multiple hiding areas

• Digging opportunities

• Different levels

Make sure heavy rocks and decorations are securely positioned so the gecko cannot dig underneath them and become trapped.

💧 Water

Fresh, clean drinking water should always be available.

Provide a shallow water dish that your gecko can easily access.

Change the water every day and immediately if it becomes contaminated.

🦗 Feeding Your Leopard Gecko

Leopard Geckos are insectivores, meaning they eat insects rather than fruit or vegetables.

Suitable live foods can include:

• Crickets

• Locusts

• Dubia roaches

• Mealworms

• Other suitable feeder insects

Offer a varied diet rather than relying entirely on one type of insect.

Waxworms and other particularly fatty foods should generally be treated as occasional foods rather than staples.

📏 Choosing the Correct Insect Size

Feeder insects should be appropriately sized for your gecko.

A useful general rule is that prey should not be much wider than the space between the gecko's eyes.

Young geckos require smaller insects than adults.

If you're unsure which size live food you need, ask us at Roxy's Pet Shop.

⏰ How Often Should I Feed?

Feeding frequency depends on age, size and body condition.

As a general guide:

Young Leopard Geckos:
🦗 Feed suitable small insects daily or almost daily.

Juveniles:
🦗 Feed approximately every day to every other day, adjusting as they grow.

Adults:
🦗 Feed approximately 2–3 times per week.

These are general guidelines rather than rigid rules.

Monitor your gecko's body condition and adjust feeding appropriately.

🥕 Gut Loading

Feeder insects should be properly gut-loaded before feeding.

Gut loading means feeding the insects a nutritious diet before they are offered to your gecko.

A well-fed insect provides much better nutrition than a poorly maintained feeder insect.

🦴 Calcium & Supplements

Calcium and vitamin supplementation is extremely important.

Live insects should be appropriately dusted with a suitable reptile calcium/vitamin supplement.

The exact schedule depends on:

• Gecko's age

• Diet

• UVB provision

• Frequency of feeding

• Supplement being used

Follow the manufacturer's instructions.

Ask us if you're unsure which supplements to use.

Incorrect supplementation can cause problems, so don't assume that more is always better.

🦴 Metabolic Bone Disease

Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) is a serious condition associated with problems involving calcium, vitamin D3 and overall husbandry.

Signs can include:

• Weakness

• Trembling

• Soft or abnormal jaw

• Bent limbs

• Difficulty walking

• Difficulty feeding

• Abnormal posture

Good nutrition, appropriate supplementation and suitable UVB help support healthy bone development.

If you suspect MBD, contact a reptile/exotics-experienced vet.

🍑 The Tail

A Leopard Gecko's tail acts partly as an energy reserve.

A healthy gecko normally has a well-proportioned tail.

However, an extremely fat tail isn't automatically a sign of perfect health.

Overfeeding can lead to obesity and other health problems.

Monitor the whole animal's body condition rather than trying to make the tail as large as possible.

⚠️ Tail Dropping

Leopard Geckos can drop their tails when frightened, injured or grabbed.

This is a defence mechanism called autotomy.

Unlike Crested Geckos, a Leopard Gecko's tail can regrow, but the replacement tail usually looks different from the original.

Never:

• Pick your gecko up by its tail

• Pull its tail

• Restrain it by the tail

Tail loss is stressful and uses significant energy to regrow.

✋ Handling

Leopard Geckos can usually become comfortable with calm, gentle handling.

Allow a new gecko time to settle before beginning regular handling.

When handling:

• Move slowly

• Scoop from underneath rather than grabbing from above

• Support the body

• Let the gecko walk across your hands

• Keep close to a safe surface

• Keep sessions sensible

• Never squeeze

• Never grab the tail

Supervise children carefully.

🪶 Shedding

Leopard Geckos regularly shed their skin as they grow.

Before shedding, you may notice:

• Skin becoming pale or grey

• Reduced activity

• More hiding

• Reduced appetite

Leopard Geckos normally eat their shed skin, so you may never see the shed afterwards.

This is completely normal.

👣 Check the Toes!

After shedding, check carefully for retained skin around:

• Toes

• Feet

• Tail tip

• Eyes

Retained shed around the toes can restrict circulation and cause serious problems if ignored.

A correctly maintained humid hide greatly reduces the risk.

Repeated shedding problems usually mean something about the enclosure or hydration needs reviewing.

Don't forcibly pull stubborn dry skin away without appropriate advice.

🧹 Cleaning

Good hygiene is important.

Every day:

• Check temperatures

• Refresh drinking water

• Remove waste

• Remove uneaten insects

• Check your gecko

Regularly:

• Clean the water dish

• Clean hides

• Remove dirty substrate

• Clean decorations

• Thoroughly clean the enclosure as required

Use a reptile-safe disinfectant and follow the manufacturer's instructions.

Never spray cleaning chemicals directly onto your gecko.

🩺 Health

A healthy Leopard Gecko should generally:

• Have clear, bright eyes

• Maintain a healthy body condition

• Have a well-proportioned tail

• Walk normally

• Feed regularly

• Have healthy-looking skin

• Shed successfully

• Become active during its normal activity periods

Learn what's normal for your individual gecko.

⚠️ Signs to Watch For

Contact a reptile/exotics-experienced vet if you notice:

• Significant weight loss

• Rapid loss of tail condition

• Persistent refusal to eat

• Severe lethargy

• Swollen limbs

• Weakness or tremors

• Difficulty walking

• Abnormal jaw

• Persistent shedding problems

• Swollen or closed eyes

• Discharge from the eyes, nose or mouth

• Persistent diarrhoea

• Blood in waste

• Prolapse

• Wounds or burns

• Abnormal lumps or swelling

Reptiles can hide illness, so don't wait until your gecko becomes severely unwell.

⚖️ Monitoring Weight

Regular weighing can help identify problems early.

Use accurate digital gram scales and keep a simple record.

Monitor:

• Weight

• Feeding

• Shedding

• Droppings

• General behaviour

Young geckos should grow steadily.

Unexpected or continuing weight loss should be investigated.

🦎 Can Leopard Geckos Live Together?

We generally recommend keeping Leopard Geckos individually.

Cohabitation can lead to:

• Competition for food

• Bullying

• Stress

• Biting

• Injuries

• Unwanted breeding

Adult males should never be housed together.

Even geckos that appear to sit together peacefully may be competing for the best heat or hiding area.

Keeping them individually makes it much easier to monitor:

• Feeding

• Weight

• Droppings

• Shedding

• General health

🦠 Hygiene & Salmonella

Like other reptiles, Leopard Geckos can naturally carry bacteria such as Salmonella without appearing ill.

Always:

• Wash your hands after handling

• Wash your hands after enclosure maintenance

• Keep reptile equipment away from food preparation areas

• Supervise children's hygiene

• Clean contaminated surfaces appropriately

Never kiss your gecko or allow it near your face or food.

⚠️ Household Dangers

Keep your Leopard Gecko and its enclosure away from:

• Aerosol sprays

• Air fresheners

• Cigarette and vape smoke

• Strong cleaning fumes

• Paint and solvent fumes

• Insecticides

• Fly sprays

• Scented candles

• Heavy fragrances

Never use household insect sprays around your gecko or its live food.

🏡 Bringing Your New Leopard Gecko Home

Before collecting your Leopard Gecko, its enclosure should already be:

• Fully set up

• Heated correctly

• Controlled appropriately

• Providing a warm and cool temperature gradient

• Equipped with suitable UVB

• Furnished with warm, cool and humid hides

• Supplied with fresh water

• Ready with suitable live food and supplements

When your gecko arrives:

• Allow it time to settle

• Keep unnecessary handling to a minimum

• Maintain stable temperatures

• Keep the normal day/night cycle

• Offer appropriate food

• Don't constantly disturb its hides

It's completely normal for a new Leopard Gecko to hide frequently while settling in.

👨👩👧 Is a Leopard Gecko Right for You?

Leopard Geckos can make excellent pets, including for people new to reptile keeping, but they still require specialist care.

Before buying one, remember that they:

• Can live for 15–20 years or longer

• Require a suitably sized vivarium

• Need controlled heating

• Benefit from suitable UVB

• Eat live insects

• Require calcium and vitamin supplementation

• Need a humid hide

• Require regular cleaning

• Can drop their tail

• May require specialist veterinary treatment

• Need suitable care whenever you're away

They are relatively straightforward reptiles when their setup and husbandry are correct.

❤️ The Most Important Things to Remember

A happy, healthy Leopard Gecko needs a suitably sized enclosure, correct temperature gradient, controlled heating, suitable UVB, three appropriate hides, fresh water, varied live insects and correct supplementation.

Remember:

🌡️ Provide a warm area and cooler area.
🔥 Always control heating appropriately.
☀️ Provide suitable low-level UVB.
💦 Always provide a humid hide.
🦗 Feed varied, gut-loaded live insects.
🦴 Use appropriate calcium and vitamin supplementation.
👣 Check the toes after shedding.
✋ Never grab your gecko by the tail.

Have the complete enclosure set up and running correctly before bringing your Leopard Gecko home.

🦎 Roxy's Pet Shop

Need help with your Leopard Gecko?

Whether you're choosing a vivarium, heating, thermostat, UVB, substrate, hides, calcium, supplements or live food, please ask us. No question is too small or silly – we'd much rather you ask.

We recommend having your complete setup ready and running at the correct temperatures before collecting your gecko.

Roxy's Pet Shop
Bloxwich High Street, WS3 3LA
☎️ 01922 492521
🌐 roxyspetshop.co.uk

This care guide provides general husbandry information and does not replace veterinary advice. Requirements can vary depending on the individual animal, enclosure and equipment used. If you are concerned about your gecko's health, contact a qualified reptile/exotics-experienced veterinary professional.