🦎 Bearded Dragon Care Guide

Bearded Dragons are one of the most popular pet reptiles. They are known for their distinctive appearance, inquisitive personalities and generally calm nature.

They originate from the hot, dry regions of Australia and require a carefully designed enclosure providing strong UVB, a proper basking area, correct temperatures and a varied diet.

Adult Bearded Dragons commonly reach around 45–60cm (18–24 inches) including their tail.

With the correct care, they can live for around 10–15 years or longer, so they are a significant commitment.

This guide covers the basics you need to keep your Bearded Dragon happy and healthy.

🏠 Housing & Vivarium

Bearded Dragons are active, terrestrial lizards that need plenty of usable floor space.

For an adult, we recommend a vivarium of at least around:

120cm × 60cm × 60cm (4ft × 2ft × 2ft)

Larger is always preferable when correctly heated and furnished.

The enclosure should include:

• Suitable basking lamp

• Thermostat-controlled heating

• High-quality UVB lighting

• Digital thermometers

• Suitable substrate

• Basking platform

• Hides

• Branches and climbing opportunities

• Fresh water

• Feeding area

• Natural enrichment

The complete setup should be installed, tested and running at the correct temperatures before collecting your Bearded Dragon.

🌡️ Temperature

Bearded Dragons require a proper temperature gradient.

The basking surface should generally reach approximately:

☀️ 40–42°C

The cooler end should generally remain around:

🌡️ 22–26°C

This allows your dragon to move between warmer and cooler areas and regulate its own body temperature.

Use reliable digital thermometers and ideally an infrared temperature gun to check basking surface temperatures.

Don't rely on touching the enclosure with your hand.

🔥 Basking & Heating

A strong basking area is essential.

Bearded Dragons use external heat to:

• Warm their bodies

• Digest food

• Remain active

• Support normal bodily functions

A suitable overhead basking lamp should create a concentrated warm area.

Heating equipment should be appropriately controlled using a suitable thermostat.

Never use an uncontrolled heat source.

Any bulb positioned inside the enclosure must be safely installed so your dragon cannot touch it and suffer burns.

Heat rocks should not be used.

🌙 Night-Time Temperature

Bearded Dragons benefit from a natural temperature reduction overnight.

In most normally heated UK homes, additional overnight heating isn't required.

If temperatures become excessively cold, a suitable lightless heat source controlled by a thermostat can be used.

Do not leave bright, red or blue lights switched on throughout the night.

Your dragon needs a proper period of darkness.

☀️ UVB – Essential

Correct UVB is absolutely essential for Bearded Dragons.

UVB allows your dragon to produce vitamin D3 and use calcium properly.

Without adequate UVB, Bearded Dragons are at serious risk of developing Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD).

Use a high-quality linear UVB tube suitable for a Bearded Dragon enclosure.

The UVB should cover a useful portion of the enclosure and overlap appropriately with the basking zone.

The correct strength and positioning depend on:

• UVB lamp being used

• Distance from the dragon

• Enclosure height

• Mesh or guards between the lamp and animal

• Manufacturer's recommendations

Replace UVB lamps according to the manufacturer's recommended schedule.

A lamp can still produce visible light even when its useful UVB output has reduced.

⏰ Lighting Cycle

Provide approximately:

☀️ 12 hours of light
🌙 12 hours of darkness

Using timers makes it much easier to maintain a consistent routine.

All visible lights should be switched off overnight.

🪨 Basking Platform

Provide a solid basking surface beneath the heat and UVB.

Suitable options can include:

• Slate

• Natural rock

• Secure stone

• Suitable reptile basking platforms

The surface should be large enough for your dragon to comfortably position its whole body underneath the basking area.

Make sure heavy rocks are securely positioned so they cannot collapse if the dragon digs underneath them.

🌵 Humidity

Bearded Dragons originate from relatively dry environments.

General humidity should usually remain around:

💧 30–40%

Natural fluctuations are normal.

Use a digital hygrometer to monitor humidity.

Avoid keeping the enclosure permanently damp or excessively humid.

Good ventilation is important.

🪵 Substrate

Suitable substrate depends on your dragon's age, health and enclosure design.

Options can include:

• Suitable naturalistic arid substrate

• Reptile-safe soil/sand mixtures

• Slate incorporated into the enclosure

• Paper towel during quarantine or when close health monitoring is required

A well-designed naturalistic substrate can provide opportunities for digging and other natural behaviours.

Avoid:

• Calcium sand

• Cat litter

• Wood shavings

• Corn cob

• Strongly scented substrate

• Sharp materials

• Chemically treated products

Correct temperatures, hydration, diet and overall husbandry are important when using loose substrate.

🏚️ Hides

Provide secure hiding opportunities.

Ideally include areas where your dragon can retreat away from:

• Heat

• UVB

• Bright light

• Activity outside the enclosure

Hiding occasionally is completely normal.

A dragon shouldn't be forced to remain exposed all day.

🌿 Enrichment

Bearded Dragons are active and curious.

Provide:

• Branches

• Cork bark

• Rocks

• Different levels

• Digging opportunities

• Hides

• Safe plants or artificial foliage

• Different textures

They often enjoy climbing onto raised areas to survey their surroundings.

Any climbing structure must be sturdy enough to support an adult dragon.

💧 Water

Fresh, clean drinking water should always be available.

Provide a shallow, stable water dish and change the water every day or whenever contaminated.

Some Bearded Dragons drink readily from bowls while others may drink less obviously.

Fresh vegetables also contribute some moisture to the diet.

🥗 Bearded Dragon Diet

Bearded Dragons are omnivores, meaning they eat both animal and plant foods.

Their dietary needs change considerably as they grow.

Young dragons require a greater proportion of live insects to support growth.

Adults should eat a much larger proportion of vegetables and leafy greens.

A varied diet is extremely important.

🦗 Live Food

Suitable live foods can include:

• Crickets

• Locusts

• Dubia roaches

• Calci worms

• Other suitable feeder insects

Offer variety rather than relying entirely on one feeder insect.

Mealworms and other higher-fat insects can be offered appropriately but shouldn't automatically become the only live food.

Waxworms are particularly fatty and are best regarded as an occasional treat.

📏 Correct Insect Size

Live food should be appropriately sized for your dragon.

For young dragons especially, avoid feeding insects that are excessively large.

If you're unsure which size live food is suitable, ask us at Roxy's Pet Shop.

⏰ How Often Should I Feed?

Feeding frequency and proportions change with age.

🐉 Babies & Young Dragons

Young dragons require:

• Suitable live insects daily

• Fresh vegetables and greens offered every day

Young dragons naturally eat considerably more live food than adults because they are growing rapidly.

🦎 Juveniles

As your dragon grows, gradually increase the proportion of vegetables and greens while reducing reliance on insects.

🐲 Adults

Adults should receive fresh leafy greens and suitable vegetables regularly, with live insects offered several times per week depending on body condition and feeding plan.

Avoid overfeeding adult dragons with large quantities of fatty insects.

Obesity is a genuine health concern.

🥬 Vegetables & Greens

Suitable foods can include:

• Spring greens

• Watercress

• Rocket

• Butternut squash

• Peppers

• Dandelion leaves

• Plantain

• Suitable leafy greens

• Other reptile-safe vegetables and weeds

Provide a good variety.

Don't rely on one vegetable every day.

🍓 Fruit

Fruit should only be offered occasionally and in small amounts, if at all.

It is naturally high in sugar and shouldn't form a significant part of a Bearded Dragon's diet.

Vegetables, leafy greens and suitable weeds are much more appropriate for regular feeding.

❌ Foods to Avoid

Never feed:

• Avocado

• Rhubarb

• Onion

• Wild insects from areas exposed to pesticides

• Fireflies

• Processed human foods

• Dairy products

• Meat intended for human consumption

• Dog or cat food

• Mouldy or spoiled food

If you're unsure whether something is safe, check before feeding it.

🥕 Gut Loading Live Food

Feeder insects should be properly gut-loaded before being offered.

Gut loading means providing the insects with a nutritious diet before your dragon eats them.

Healthy, well-fed feeder insects provide much better nutrition.

Never feed insects that have been exposed to household insecticides or pesticides.

🦴 Calcium & Supplements

Calcium supplementation is extremely important.

Live insects should be appropriately dusted with a suitable reptile calcium and vitamin supplement.

The exact schedule depends on:

• Dragon's age

• Diet

• Frequency of live feeding

• UVB provision

• Supplement being used

Follow the manufacturer's instructions.

More supplementation is not automatically better.

Ask us if you're unsure which calcium or vitamin products to use.

♂️♀️ How to Tell the Sex

Sexing a Bearded Dragon can be difficult when they are young. The differences usually become much easier to identify as the dragon grows and matures.

🦎 Males

Mature males generally have:

• Two noticeable hemipenal bulges underneath the base of the tail
• A slight dip or indentation between the two bulges
• More prominent femoral pores along the underside of the back legs
• A broader, larger head in many adults
• A thicker tail base

🦎 Females

Mature females generally have:

• One central bulge, rather than two separate hemipenal bulges
• Smaller and less prominent femoral pores
• A slimmer tail base
• Generally less pronounced sexual characteristics around the tail and hind legs

🔍 Checking the Tail

The base of the tail is one of the most useful areas for sexing a mature Bearded Dragon.

With the dragon supported securely, the tail can be gently raised to look at the underside near the vent.

Males generally show two elongated bulges, one on either side of the tail base.

Females generally show one central bulge or a much flatter appearance.

Never force or bend the tail excessively when checking.

⚠️ Young Bearded Dragons

Very young Bearded Dragons can be difficult to sex accurately. Features such as hemipenal bulges and femoral pores become easier to identify as the animal develops.

⚠️ Sexing Disclaimer

Please note that Roxy’s Pet Shop is unable to guarantee the sex of any livestock.

Where we provide a suggested sex, this is based on the animal’s visible characteristics, age and our experience at the time. Some animals can be particularly difficult to sex when young.

Any sex stated should therefore be treated as our best assessment and not a guarantee.

🦴 Metabolic Bone Disease

Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) is a serious condition associated with inadequate calcium, vitamin D3, UVB or inappropriate husbandry.

Signs can include:

• Weakness

• Trembling

• Soft or swollen jaw

• Bent limbs

• Difficulty walking

• Abnormal posture

• Deformed bones

• Seizures in severe cases

Correct UVB + calcium + diet + heating are all essential.

MBD is much easier to prevent than treat.

Seek veterinary advice if you suspect a problem.

✋ Handling

Bearded Dragons generally tolerate calm, gentle handling well.

Allow a new dragon time to settle before beginning frequent handling.

When handling:

• Approach calmly

• Scoop from underneath

• Support the entire body

• Support all four legs

• Never squeeze

• Keep close to a safe surface

• Supervise children carefully

Avoid grabbing from directly above where possible, as sudden overhead movement can frighten them.

🐉 The Beard

Bearded Dragons get their name from the spiny area underneath their throat.

They may expand and darken their beard when:

• Frightened

• Excited

• Displaying

• Territorial

• Hormonal

• Stressed

A dark beard doesn't automatically mean aggression.

Look at the dragon's entire behaviour and situation.

👋 Arm Waving & Head Bobbing

Bearded Dragons communicate through body language.

You may see:

👋 Arm waving – often associated with submissive or social signalling.

🐉 Head bobbing – can be associated with dominance, territorial or breeding behaviour.

These can be completely normal behaviours.

🪶 Shedding

Bearded Dragons shed their skin as they grow.

Young dragons shed more frequently because they grow quickly.

Unlike snakes, Bearded Dragons often shed in patches rather than one complete piece.

You may notice:

• Dull skin

• White or pale patches

• Increased rubbing

• Reduced appetite

• Temporary irritability

Never pull dry shed from your dragon.

Provide suitable rough surfaces such as rocks and cork to help natural shedding.

👣 Check Toes & Tail

Pay particular attention to retained shed around:

• Toes

• Tail tip

• Legs

Tight retained shed can restrict circulation.

If your dragon repeatedly struggles to shed correctly, review its husbandry and seek experienced advice where necessary.

😴 Brumation

Adult Bearded Dragons may enter a period of reduced activity known as brumation.

During this time they may:

• Sleep more

• Hide more

• Eat less

• Become much less active

However, illness can look similar to brumation.

Never simply assume that a lethargic dragon that stops eating is brumating.

If you're uncertain, particularly if there is weight loss or other symptoms, contact a reptile/exotics-experienced vet.

🧹 Cleaning

Good hygiene is essential.

Every day:

• Check temperatures

• Check your dragon

• Refresh water

• Remove waste

• Remove spoiled vegetables

• Remove uneaten live food

Regularly:

• Clean food and water dishes

• Clean hides

• Clean decorations

• Remove contaminated substrate

• Thoroughly clean the enclosure as required

Use a reptile-safe disinfectant and follow the manufacturer's instructions.

Never spray cleaning products directly onto your dragon.

⚖️ Monitoring Weight

Regular weighing is an excellent way to monitor health and growth.

Use accurate digital scales and keep a record.

Young dragons should grow steadily.

Adults should maintain a healthy body condition without becoming overweight.

Rapid or continuing unexplained weight loss should be investigated.

🩺 Health

A healthy Bearded Dragon should generally:

• Be bright and alert when warm

• Have clear eyes

• Move normally

• Maintain a healthy body condition

• Feed appropriately

• Have healthy skin and scales

• Breathe quietly

• Produce normal waste

• Bask normally

Learn what's normal for your individual dragon.

⚠️ Signs to Watch For

Contact a reptile/exotics-experienced vet if you notice:

• Significant weight loss

• Persistent refusal to eat

• Severe lethargy

• Trembling

• Weakness

• Swollen or soft jaw

• Difficulty walking

• Persistent black beard alongside illness

• Swollen or closed eyes

• Discharge from the eyes, nose or mouth

• Wheezing

• Open-mouth breathing when not basking

• Persistent diarrhoea

• Blood in waste

• Prolapse

• Wounds or burns

• Abnormal swelling

Reptiles can hide illness, so don't wait until your dragon becomes severely unwell.

🐉 Can Bearded Dragons Live Together?

We recommend keeping Bearded Dragons individually.

Cohabitation can cause:

• Bullying

• Stress

• Competition for heat

• Competition for UVB

• Competition for food

• Biting

• Missing toes or tail tips

• Serious injuries

• Unwanted breeding

Two dragons sitting on top of each other under a basking lamp may look cute, but this can actually be competition for the best heat and UVB position.

Individual housing is the safest option and makes monitoring health and feeding much easier.

🦠 Hygiene & Salmonella

Like other reptiles, Bearded Dragons can naturally carry Salmonella bacteria without appearing ill.

Always:

• Wash your hands after handling

• Wash your hands after enclosure maintenance

• Keep reptile equipment away from food preparation areas

• Supervise children's hygiene

• Clean contaminated surfaces appropriately

Never kiss your Bearded Dragon or allow it near your face or food.

⚠️ Household Dangers

Keep your dragon away from:

• Aerosol sprays

• Air fresheners

• Cigarette and vape smoke

• Strong cleaning fumes

• Paint and solvent fumes

• Insecticides

• Fly sprays

• Scented candles

• Heavy fragrances

Never use household insecticides around your dragon or its feeder insects.

🏡 Bringing Your New Bearded Dragon Home

Before collecting your Bearded Dragon, the enclosure should already be:

• Fully set up

• Running correctly

• At the correct basking temperature

• Providing a proper cooler area

• Equipped with high-quality UVB

• Using correctly controlled heating

• Furnished with suitable hides and enrichment

• Supplied with fresh water

• Ready with appropriate food and supplements

When your dragon arrives:

• Allow time to settle

• Keep unnecessary handling to a minimum initially

• Maintain stable temperatures

• Maintain the normal day/night cycle

• Offer familiar suitable food

• Monitor eating and waste

A newly introduced Bearded Dragon may initially hide more or eat less while adjusting to its new surroundings.

👨👩👧 Is a Bearded Dragon Right for You?

Bearded Dragons can make fantastic pets, but they still require specialist care.

Before buying one, remember that they:

• Can live for 10–15 years or longer

• Can reach around 45–60cm

• Require at least around a 4ft × 2ft × 2ft adult enclosure

• Require strong, correctly installed UVB

• Need a proper basking area

• Eat live insects

• Need fresh vegetables and greens

• Require calcium and vitamin supplementation

• Need regular cleaning

• Are best housed individually

• May require specialist veterinary treatment

• Need suitable care whenever you're away

Plan for the adult animal, not simply the small baby you're bringing home.

❤️ The Most Important Things to Remember

A happy, healthy Bearded Dragon needs plenty of space, a proper temperature gradient, strong UVB, a suitable basking area, a varied diet, appropriate calcium supplementation, fresh water and plenty of enrichment.

Remember:

☀️ Correct UVB is essential.
🌡️ Maintain the correct basking and cool-side temperatures.
🔥 Control heating appropriately.
🦗 Feed varied, gut-loaded live insects.
🥬 Offer suitable vegetables and leafy greens.
🦴 Use appropriate calcium and vitamin supplementation.
🏠 Provide plenty of space and enrichment.
🐉 House Bearded Dragons individually.

Have the complete enclosure set up and running correctly before bringing your Bearded Dragon home.

🦎 Roxy's Pet Shop

Need help with your Bearded Dragon?

Whether you're choosing a vivarium, heating, thermostat, UVB, substrate, hides, calcium, supplements, vegetables or live food, please ask us. No question is too small or silly – we'd much rather you ask.

We recommend having your complete setup ready and running at the correct temperatures before collecting your Bearded Dragon.

Roxy's Pet Shop
Bloxwich High Street, WS3 3LA
☎️ 01922 492521
🌐 roxyspetshop.co.uk

This care guide provides general husbandry information and does not replace veterinary advice. Requirements can vary depending on the individual animal, its age, enclosure and equipment used. If you are concerned about your Bearded Dragon's health, contact a qualified reptile/exotics-experienced veterinary professional.